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Sunday, June 7, 2015

Savannah, Georgia 2015

One of our favorite places on this big round ball we call home
is Savannah, Georgia. A true southern belle of a city, she's all about
beauty, and charm, and yes, even mystery. And like a true southern belle,
Savannah's the one everybody wants to know better.
 
Oops! Not this Savannah, 
even though all that stuff I wrote is still true.  
I'm talking about THIS Savannah:



So we flew Southwest to Charleston, a lovely city in itself, and picked up 
our car, then drove the back way down to Savannah. After checking in at our hotel,
we drove the neighborhood some, and ended up at The Sixpence Pub for dinner.
This place appeared in the movie "Something to Talk About", with Julia Roberts
and Dennis Quaid. It was at the window here that Julia stood in the rain, in her PJs
and stared inside at her hubby (Dennis) with another woman!
Inside , here I am pretending to drink the candle. And Linda, putting up with me. 



















After dinner, we stepped to the nearby square for a walk. Savannah originally
 reserved 24 such public squares in a checkerboard pattern, throughout the city.
They were laid out to serve as places for outlying settlers to use (for their livestock),
whenever they might be forced to retreat into town, because of Indian attacks,
or other calamities. Now they remain as lovely parks all around the historical city!
Next morning, we wanted to attend the church in downtown
Savannah, but worship doesn't start until 10 AM, so
"we start the day, the happy way" at Clary's Cafe.
This place is over a century old, and is still going strong!
The true crime story "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil"
took place in Savannah, and this cafe prominently figured
in the book and movie, which was also filmed here.
 Mmmm Eggs Benedict
After breakfast we joined the sweet people who meet together here,
at the Church of Christ in Savannah (on Drayton St).
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The day we were there, we had about seventy people, 
and it was definitely a spirit led service! A few of the faithful:

Afterwards, we visited the Mercer House, which is famous for two reasons;
first, it was the home of songwriter Johnny Mercer's family, and later was
purchased by Jim Williams, and gained notoriety as the setting for his fabulous
Christmas parties, and the scene of the famous shooting in Midnight in the Garden!
A few other lovely homes around this same square...


 If Picasso had painted this, he would've called it
"Old Man in repose on a door stoop".
Hey, I've got an idea...let's do lunch!
A local lady recommended the Crystal Beer Parlor and
it was just the ticket! We really wanted to try the peach cobbler,
but we couldn't eat another bite...so we promised ourselves...
 maybe later!  Here's another try at a "selfie"... but  nyah..
Here's what we really look like!

After lunch, it was sprinkling a bit. Not a downpour, just enough
to keep you in. So, we did a slow Sunday afternoon drive
through the Washington neighborhood. (beautiful homes!)
Sorry, no pictures here, because of the rain...except we did 
stop for a pic of these trees. They were covered with
very lacy white flowers, and not like anything in Texas!
At dinnertime, we were still not hungry, so we decided to skip.
But, a promise is a promise, so we went back to the
Crystal Parlor for that Peach Cobbler dessert!  Yumm!
Since there was still a little daylight left, we cruised some of the beautiful
squares in the historical district. Here's the statue in Madison Square:
Reynolds Square, the home of the Planter's Inn
and the adjoining Olde Pink House restaurant



  Savannah's Independent Presbyterian church,
where the feather gently floated down to begin
the movie "Forrest Gump". It finally came to rest
at the foot of a park bench in Chippewa Square.



The Oglethorpe Monument in Chippewa Square.
This square was the site of that park bench
where Forrest sat and told his life story to
passing strangers, while he waited for his bus.
In truth, the bench was actually never part of this
square, only a movie prop added to facilitate
the telling of the story!
Next morning , we were still not very hungry, so we opted
 for a light breakfast of quiche at the Foxy Loxy Cafe.

Whenever we finally do find out "what does the fox say?"
I'll bet it's not "the sky is falling, the sky is falling!"
One of the handsome gingerbread houses in the neighborhood:
And then, on to city Market!

This is an open air market about three blocks long, lined with
shops, cafes, and art galleries, a great place to spend a morning!

 Byrd's Cookie store, where they sell some awesome Peach Cookies,
and Key Lime Cookies that make you think you're in Florida!
 Based on the shape of my mouth, and the blur of my hand,
I must have been talking with one of the "Byrd Girls"!
 After a little more shopping we noticed this sign:

 We were relieved to learn you didn't have to take your drink to go.
Here, it's Peach Sangria served in jelly jars!
Because of the many art galleries and working studios in this area, City Market
calls itself "The Art and Soul of Savannah". We found a couple of prints
we liked by this local artist, Matthew Pope.
Just a block from City Market is this place: The Lady & Sons.
Great southern style cooking by Paula Deen! Since we had eaten here before, 
we wanted to find something new, but oooh, that Butter Cake!

Instead we opted for a new place Linda had heard about: Henry's
It was yummy, and priced to sell! If there weren't so many
great eateries in Savannah, I'd eat here every day.
But what about Clary's and Sisters and the Crystal Parlor and...
After lunch, we hit a few more shops, and one of our favs 
is Jere's Antiques. He's got 33,000 sq ft of space which is like 
a football field with a roof on it, and a bunch of dusty furniture inside!
 It's cool because Jere's got such a stash of Grandfather clocks,
and over 25 carved wooden bars like this canopy job:
Then she took me to One Fish Two Fish, which I thought
was something else, but was really home interiors...and their sister shop, the Annex

We checked out a few more antiques until dinner time,
then we adjourned to this little jewel:

Here's Kenneth and Vicky Brown (right), the owners
(and the baby of eight sisters - no brothers) and two of their managers.
They bought this cafe a few years ago and renamed it Sisters of the New South,
and with recipes from the other seven sisters, they serve up seriously good soul food!
Jenel Few/Savannah Morning News Sisters of the New South supervisors Bianca Battise and Mollie Gadson and owners Kenneth Brown and Vicky Brown serve up specially seasoned Southern cuisine.
So pick a meat, and three sides, and they'll dish up a heapin' helpin'!

And by the way, Linda has a new recipe for
sweet potatoes that will break your little pea-pickin' heart!
After that dinner, we felt like walking, so we went down 
to River Street, which is a six block long, cobbled stretch of road
that runs along the Savannah River, between the water, and the town.
This part is called Factors' Walk.
Originally, warehouses lined the waterfront, where new world 
produce, like tobacco and cotton, were stored until 
they were loaded onto ships heading abroad. Nowadays, 
the waterfront is a popular tourist spot, with the warehouses 
having been renovated into boutiques, shops and cafes!
It's quite a collecting place for tourists and locals alike!



Now, here's something we learned on an earlier trip that most locals
don't even know:  Down towards the east end of River St,  near the
Waving Girl Statue, and directly across the street from Fannie's Your Aunt,
there is a small park that overlooks the river. In the park is a short brick wall
in the shape of a circle and stands about two feet tall (and about 20 feet across).
The center of the circle is marked by bricks that form an "X" on the floor.
Stand on the X and say out loud the Pledge of Allegiance, and see what happens!


Next morning head over to Back in the Day Bakery




We discovered this place on our last visit,
and we like the pastries so much that
Linda bought the cookbook!



Some of you have even tasted the treasures
found within these pages!


                     And what do you know? This time we actually 
met the owners/authors...It's Cheryl and Griff!

Then we head east, out about 12 miles to the 
actual coast, on Tybee Island!
Image result for tybee island images
The Tybee Lighthouse:
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And then, welcoming everyone to the sand and water, is this guy!
And hey...stay off the Turtle!
Since it was only mid-morning, and the middle of the week, in the middle of April,
we were just about the only ones here. But still the sand and sea beckon!
Just like any beach town expecting the spring break crowd, 
they've got tons of souvenir shops and night spots.
Image result for tybee island images
One of our favorites is Sting Ray's. Still too early to stop in today,
but great fresh seafood, and live music at night!
Image result for tybee island images
Then, on our way back to Savannah, we pass a little sign that led us to this place:
Not Joe's Crab Shack... but the original Crab Shack that gave Joe the idea!
Image result for tybee island images
It's still not eleven AM yet, so they weren't open, but when
we saw this sign, we agreed that we would have to come back later!





We did a little more antiquing on our way back 
into town, then stopped at the Blowin Smoke 
Southern Cantina for some lunch.


We can recommend the pulled pork tacos
and whatever is the drink special of the day!





After that, we hit Sarah Jane's, Collectibles on Habersham, and Two Women
and a Warehouse (both locations). I think I made it through with only one purchase,
 that little watercolor beach scene, that sits on the buffet in our dining room.
Image result for watercolor beach scenes
The weather was great, so we headed to
Forsythe Park for a little stroll.
 One of the most recognizable features of this large park
is this fountain which sets to the north end of the grounds.

 A nice fellow asked if he could take our picture here, and it must've
made him feel like family, because right afterwards, he asked me
 for money, just like he was one of my kids.
That evening we felt like pizza, and not just any pizza.
We wanted Screamin' Mimi's pizza!

This is how we roll at Mimi's! That big white blur is ours!
Yeah, we're gonna eat that thing in about fifteen minutes!Image result for www.screamin mimis pizza images
Next morning we visit Alex Raskin's Antique shop. It's in a
four story antebellum home at the corner of Bull and Gordon.
You enter through a street level door on the side.
 
Inside he's got tons of interesting stuff!
Let's play a game.  Can you find Linda?                                            Can you find her now?
On the third floor balcony we found this, and I don't know
what it is, but I would've stolen it, if I could lift it.
One more level to the attic!
Even if you bought something, you couldn't get it outta here!
 Becky W, this place is whispering your name!
After all that exploring,We stopped for lunch 
at this fifties style place called Bobbie's Diner.

They make a great Chicken Sandwich!  Me, waiting for mine.
We tooled around town some more, bought some souvenirs
and snapped this picture at the classic Thunderbird Inn.
This place should be on the old Route 66!
Anyway, we like their motto:
So later we head back out to Tybee Island and The Crab Shack!
This time they're open for business...
 but nobody sits inside!
Yeah, the deck is the place to be!

After we were seated, Linda hears this voice in the distance,
calling, "Marty! Marty Winn!" which is never good news.

Except this time it was my cousin Winona and husband Greg!
They live in McKinney, and (unknown to us) were visiting Savannah
and just chose this evening to try the Crab Shack!
It truly is a small world!
 
After a couple of Big Kahunas, our food arrived.
I'm having the Low Country Boil!
And for you cat lovers, on the patio of the Crab Shack,
they have the Cat Shack! And brother, they looked well fed!
The rain started just as we were finishing, so we headed
to the Savannah Mall to walk off dinner.  Then around 8:00 pm...
Next day we ate breakfast at Henry's, then went to pay our respects
at Colonial Park.  There are some very old cemeteries in Savannah,
including the resting place for the brave soldiers who served under General Lee 
during the War of Northern Aggression. This one is even older:
The resting place of those who fought the Revolution,
and other Founding Fathers of Georgia:
Many of the headstones are so aged and weathered, you can't read them.



And while we're nearby, we snap a picture of this place:
The Pirate House restaurant.
Back in the 1750s, Savannah had become a well established
colony, and this inn was built a block from the Savannah River.
Mentioned in RL Stevenson's book "Treasure Island" this was a meeting house
for sailors (and pirates) from the seven seas! In fact, legends still persist about
young men who came and drank til they passed out, only to be scuttled away,
through a hidden tunnel that led to the river, where they would later awaken
on a ship and discover they were heading out to sea!
Perhaps it is true. Inside you can view the stairs leading down
to a dark, dark tunnel that leads to...well who knows?
A fun dining experience, but not for today. Today we're  having lunch here:
The Olde Pink House, on Reynolds Square!
It was truly fine dining. Because we made a reservation, they had
my name, and used it a lot!  It was kinda cool, being called "Mr. Winn" 
so often by the young Maitre'D in front of all the other guests!
We started with fried green tomatoes                            and shared a Caesar salad
                           
Not pictured: my Shrimp and Pasta, or Linda's mashed potatoes and collard greens
 but Linda's Chicken and Mac was delish!

On our way out, the Maitre'D wished us well again, and
admired my "buttermilk" shoes! Someday all men will dress like this!
After this fine lunch, we shopped some places on State Street,
until we ended up at The Vicar's Wife Vintage Shop

not pictured, the cigar









The first thing I noticed was the smell of the fine cigar, wafting around the front lawn of the vintage shop, while this fellow set up a few outdoor pieces to attract shoppers!

The Vicar's Wife was not at the shop just then, but this was her husband, minding the store. So being the husband of the Vicar's Wife made him ...well, The Vicar, of course. And he is. The Vicar Wesley of the Center for Spiritual Living!  

                                                              A little peek inside the shop!

Dinnertime, next to the last night. So we head back to the Six Pence Pub,
because the drinks are cold, the food is good, and everybody knows our names!
Well, no...wait. That would be the Olde Pink House.

Ever notice how often She looks like this...
when I look like this!


Next morning was Friday, the day of the NOGS Hidden Garden Tour, 
which was why we came when we did! The Savannah Garden Club is referred to 
as the North of Gaston Society (NOGS) and every year they offer a walking tour of 
several of the lovely private gardens of some of their members' homes!
and it is such a delight!


 Just the kind of retreat for a Master Gardener, and her "Igor".
It's where we get some of our ideas!
 an actual working bird feeder.
And in this small backyard, an edible garden...except for the bricks!

This one's close, but very comfortable:




 Wait a minute,,,is that marijuana?




 This entire backyard was "swimming pool"
but with the ivy and yard art, it was a great escape!
And here we loved the various shade plants, and ground cover.

And not every backyard has a fountain, but then some have two! 
 What a place to stretch out:


Further on, we saw a side yard that was just about an alley,
but even it was nicely done.
 
The tour finishes the first half of the day. Next we'll break for lunch,
and then return to the elegant Tea party this afternoon!
We'd passed this homemade BBQ stand in a converted gas station
parking lot several times, but today is the day we stop!
And when I say homemade, I mean this little screened-in shack,
in the middle of the parking lot, is where the real work is done!
There's no tables, it's all cash and carry. This little tent is so you can
get out of the sun, while you wait for your food .  Do I look excited?
I was like a puppy in a fire hydrant factory.
Since we had the Tea coming up later, we shared a plate, 
and it's a good thing we did! Even the Medium plate is LARGE!

Friday afternoon: the NOGS Hidden Gardens Reception and Tea!
That happens here, at the Green-Meldrim House.
This home was built in the 1850s by Mr.Charles Green, who actually 
rode out to meet General William Sherman as his troops approached the city, 
during the Civil War! Green offered his home to the union general, to use as 
his headquarters.  And Sherman, who had marched across Georgia burning 
everything in his path, spared Savannah.  Instead, he notified Mr. Lincoln 
that he was giving the president this city as a Christmas present! 
 The home is now listed on the historical registry, remains furnished with
antiques, and serves as a museum and HQ for the Garden Club.
And naturally, the  grounds are impeccable,

 Inside, I'm enjoying some refreshments.
Now wait a minute...I'm getting this second plate for Linda!
 Here we are at the gorgeous spiral staircase          and Linda with a new friend who must be a secret quilter!


Nice digs, huh?
 But we decide to take our tea on the veranda
The portico stretches around three sides of the home,
and it's the place to see, and be seen!
It was a truly elegant afternoon, and a great way to finish a great trip!

Now Drizzle Drazzle Druzzle Drome,
time for these two to go home!